Jebel Toubkal ("Jebel" means a mountain in Arabic) is a friendly four-thousander located in the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Its height of 4167m makes it a worthwhile mountaineering target. It can also be a warm-up mountain for more challenging adventures later in a climbing season. There is little technical difficulty in climbing the mountain in the summer months when there is no snow (generally, May or later). I climbed the mountain at the beginning of April.
Once landed in Marrakesh, it is worth heading directly into the Atlas Mountains to start acclimatization process. One can take a taxi directly from the airport into the mountains. The drive from the airport to Imlil, a little Berber village located at 1740m in the Atlas Mountains, takes one and half hour by car. One can stay in a riad there or in any small Berber villages nearby (for example, Ait Souka where I stayed) close to the path of the mountain. The best choice of accommodation is probably Kasbah du Toubkal which is in league of its own in the area.
Once Imlil is reached, the next stop of this mountaineering trip would be base camp refuges ("Les Mouflons" and "Nelter" which are located right next to each other). A Berber's "4x4" (a mule) can be hired to carry rucksacks which makes the hike to the refuges easier. Mules are the only feasible way of transporting anything heavy further into the Atlas Mountains since most of the treks are too narrow for anything else. It is relatively straightforward to reach the refuges. A local guide can be hired though if needed. Some mountaineering equipment can also be rented from the locals in Imlil: for example, crampons and ice axes in the early part of the year. This may need to be arranged in advance though.
The trekking path leads from Imlil to Around after which a small river needs to be crossed into a floodplain. Then, the path goes through the valley on the left side of it in the direction of the trek. One can see mules coming both ways along the path carrying provisions and luggage as well as people into and out of the refuges and villages. It is almost impossible to lose your way on this trek. The path is also busy with tourists coming from around the world. There are several opportunities to stop for a sweet mint tea ("Berber whisky" as the locals jokingly call it), snacks and refreshments along the way. The slope of the path is gentle until the village of Sidi Chamharouch. In April, one can go in training shoes up to the village.
It takes about two and a half hours to reach the village of Sidi Chamharouch (2350m) where one can stop for a lunch. It is located by a small waterfall near the steam coming from the mountains. The main attraction of the village is the small mosque of Sidi Chamharouch. However location aside, the mosque looks fairly unspectacular. Berbers say that a visit to the mosque can heal various illnesses. The village itself looks like all other Berber villages though: small rectangular stone houses. The views into the valley are beautiful though and can be enjoyed sipping freshly squeezed orange juice under the sun.
After Sidi Chamharouch, the trek becomes steeper so one needs proper sturdy boots to continue. There are opportunities for refreshments and tea along the path so there is no need to carry much water. The path follows the river Assif n'Ouagounss. It can take two more hours to reach the refuge "Les Mouflons" and its older and cheaper cousin, refuge "Nelter". The refuges are located at the height of 3207m. The evening can be whiled away by talking to other tourists from around the world. The altitude makes itself felt at 3200m so one also needs rest to acclimatize.
Most people wake up at 5:30-ish the next morning, have breakfast at the refuge and start to ascend the mountain. It is busy outside of the refuges. In April, it may be cold up on the mountain. A good idea is to have a Sigg water bottle since my water in a plastic bottle got partially frozen half way through the trek. It is also a good idea to carry thermos with hot water for one of the breaks to the top. Unexpected was a strong wind blowing down the mountain and throwing icicles into the face. The wind was sometimes so strong that one had to stop and wait for it to subside. It did try to pull me off that mountain! At 3700-3800m, it does become a little more difficult. One must be properly dressed at this time of the year since missing something as basic as gloves may make it impossible to reach the top. Based on the conversations in the refuge after the climb, some of the hikers did not make it to the top and had to return due to altitude sickness or just because they got cold. I needed a base layer, a fleece and a shell jacket to feel comfortable getting to the summit. One needs also to have crampons in April. An axe or walking poles are also a necessity early in the climbing season. An ice axe is needed mostly for support when walking in crampons on the slopes.
It took three hours to climb the mountain. The views from the top are beautiful and far reaching. The mountain does sadly suffer from graffiti at the top though. A half of an hour at the top for rest and two to two and a half hours to descend (with taking pictures) make the round trip about six hours. It can take another three and a half hours to return to Imlil with stopping for lunch at Sidi Chamharouch. Marrakesh can be reached by the fall of the night by taking a taxi from Imlil (needs to be arranged in advance).
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